This relaxed and modernly spare cheap eat near the train station has since 1975 served filling Etririan meals for well under $20. Start with an antipasto of dulot (sheep innards—very traditional) or sambusa (meat and vegetable rolls).
The typical main course is zighini (beef and veggies heavily sauced with berberè, a mix of 16 spices each tops in nuclear meltdown hotness). There are many steak variations on this theme (some of which won't sear your taste buds), an excellent misto vegetariano (veggie mix), and dorho' (spicy sauce over chicken with hard-boiled eggs).
All dishes are served with a taita, a kind of spongy flatbread you use to scoop up bites of your meal (forks are provided upon request for those too inculcated by western table etiquette to eat with their fingers).
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Via Gaeta 26 (about 4 blocks east of the Baths of Diocletian)
tel. +39-06-494-1077
Closed Mon
€€
Bus: 38, 92, 217, 360, M; 75 310, 492, C3; 16
Metro: Castro Pretorio (B) or Rupubblica (A)
Hop-on/hop-off: Largo Di Villa Peretti