Crowds from tour buses do not flock to this lovely medieval church for the 11th century frescoes on the walls of the atmospherically dim interior, nor for the lovely 12th century bell tower, nor for the marvlous particolored cosmatesque pavement that decorate the floors in fabulous mosaic patterns of cut stone.
It's not even the fact that this church contains the flower-crowned skull of St. Valentine himself, a 3rd century Roman bishop of Terni and famed patron saint of lovers the world over. (Most of the rest of Valentine is, believe it or not, in a church in Dublin.)
It's an ancient Roman sewer-covering hanging inside the portico.
The Bocca della Verità is a heavy stone disc carved in the 4th century B.C. as a grotesque, bearded face with a gaping, dark slot for a mouth.
It got its nickname, the "Mouth of Truth," from the medieval tradition that holds if you stick your hand in its mouth and tell a lie, it'll clamp down on your fingers.
Apparently, a priest once added some sting to this belief by hiding behind the mouth with a scorpion, dispensing justice as he saw fit.
If all that sounds vaguely familiar, it's because Gregory Peck did this in Roman Holiday to impress Audrey Hepburn.
(Film legend holds that, when it came time to film the famous scene, Peck veered from how they'd rehearsed it, tucked his hand up his sleeve, and threw his all into pretending the thing really had bit off his hand, which is why Hepburn's shrieking is genuine.)
Piazza Bocca della Verità 18/Via della Greca 4
tel. +39-06-678-7759 or 06-679-3609
060608.it
Daily 9:30am–5:30pm
Free
Roma Pass: No
Planning your day: If takes all of 90 seconds to pose for the camera with your hand stuck in the Mouth of Truth—though you may have to wait in line behind a busload of Japanese tourists. However, please do take another 15–20 minutes to pop into the church itself; it's quite evocative and pleasingly medieval inside. The gate closes 10 minutes before the church.
Note: The gate to the portico—and access to the Mouth of Truth—closes 10 minutes before the church. » Rome itineraries
Take a guided tour of Santa Maria in Cosmedin with one of our partners:
The church sits at the edge of what is affectionately known as the Foro Boario, or Cow Forum—you can't miss the pair of midget ancient temples across the street.
You can attend services at Santa Maria in Cosmedin Sundays at 10:30am.
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Piazza Bocca della Verità 18/Via della Greca 4
tel. +39-06-678-7759 or 06-679-3609
060608.it
Daily 10:00am–5pm
Free
Roma Pass: No
Bus: 81, 87, 122, 628, C3, 175, 715, 160F
Metro: Circo Massimo(B)
Hop-on/hop-off: Circo Massimo