Santandrea ★★★

Refined modern-meets-Sicilian cuisine in a lovely outdoor setting in Palermo, Sicily

Family run and casually classy, Santandrea is all about candlelit tables on a small, Palermo piazza of half-decayed buildings and a forgotten church facade (in winter they retreat under terra-cotta ceilings).

Used to be, Annamaria would recite in delicious detail the daily offerings based on the freshest ingredients from the nearby Vucciria market. Now they have a proper menu (with delightfully terrible English translations).

Their spaghetti con bottarga e aragosta (lobster and dried, grated fish eggs) is excellent, as are fresh tagliatelle with mullet, shrimp, capers, and black olives, or in a pesto of zucchini leaves, toasted pine nuts, and sun-dried tomatoes.

Roasted or grilled fish is the most popular main course, although a mix of grilled meats or those involtini di pesce spada are also tempting. Desserts are all made in-house.

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