Ristorante Charleston ★

One of Palermo's top, classic restaurants

Palermo's premier restaurant occupies an ornate, Art Nouveau boardwalk palace on Mondello Beach north of Palermo proper—the dining terrace is actually cantilevered out over the water. It's the sort of place you dress up for so you don't stick out amid the three-piece suits and fancy dress of Palermo's elite.

Actually, the staff tend to ignore tourists quite a bit—too busy being solicitous to recognized and respected Palermitani faces—so it's a good thing they serve some of Sicily's most stellar food.

Some of their most memorable dishes are the carpaccio Charleston (flattened swordfish on a bed of torn greens kissed with lemon), ravioli panna e prosciutto (ravioli under a cream and prosciutto sauce), and especially their signature dish, involtini di spada alle brace (small, grilled swordfish roll-ups). You can keep the bill down by ordering the house wine, a good Sicilian Corvo (white or red), but don't skimp on the excellent dessert cart.

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