La Tana dei Noantri

Spicy pasta for a romantic evening in one of the most traditional trattorie in Trastevere

A young friend of mine was recently in Rome to visit his girlfriend during her junior year abroad and he asked me for a restaurant where they could celebrate their anniversary.

Top of my list was this Trastevere classic with a convivially romantic outdoor dining patio, the tables arrayed under big umbrellas on the cobblestones of a pocket-size piazza just off Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. (After all, 17 years ago, when I was studying in Rome, I took a beautiful fellow student to several romantic dinners here, and that worked out well. As I type this, I can hear her playing with our young son in the other room.)

The interior rooms are more formal, with wood ceilings and painted coats of arms hanging above baronial fireplaces; not bad, but I always make a point to request one of those more romantic outdoor tables (when you call, ask: "Vorrei prenotare una tavola fuori sulla piazzetta." "For two people" is "per due persone").

La Tana dei Noiantri—the name means "our tavern" in trasteverino dialect (or, more accurately, "the tavern of us others," a subtle way of defining local residents as separate from the Romans on the other side of the River)—has a vast menu with seemingly limitless offerings of quite good cuisine impeccably served by crisply bow-tied waiters.

As for the food, I'd open with the tasty stracciatella romana (egg-drop soup with parmigiano reggiano) or the wonderfully spicy penne all'arrabbiata (pasta quills in a "hopping mad" tomato sauce spiked with hot peperoncino peppers).

The best among the secondi are the abbacchio arrosto con patate (roasted spring lamb with roast potatoes) and fritto cervello di abbacchio (fried lamb’s brains with zucchini), but the bistecca di manzo (beefsteak) is fine as well. There's also a sizable selection of fresh fish, seafood, and pizza.

Tips & links

Details

Via della Paglia 1–3 (the street leading west out of Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere)
tel. +39-06-580-6404
Closed Tues and Jan 8–Feb 2
€€€

Bus: 115, 23, 271, 280; Tram 8; 780

Nearby...
General dining tips
  • "Pane e coperto" is not a scam: Nearly all Italian restaurants have an unavoidable pane e coperto ("bread and cover" charge) of anything from €1 to €15—though most often €2 to €5—per person that is automatically added onto your bill. This is perfectly normal and perfectly legal (though a few trendy restaurants make a big deal about not charging it).
  • Find out if service (tip) is included: Don't double-tip by accident. If the menu has a line—usually near the bottom of the front or back—that says "servizio" with either a percentage, an amount, or the word "incluso" after it, that means the tip is automatically included in the price. (If it says "servizio non incluso," tip is, obviously, not included.)

    Even if the menu doesn't say it, ask É incluso il servizio? (ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo)—"Is service included?" If not, tip accordingly (10%–15% is standard).

    Don't be stingy about tipping, though. If il servizio is, indeed, already included but the service was particularly good, it's customary to round up the bill or leave €1 per person extra—just to show you noticed and that you appreciated the effort.
  • Tourist menus: The concept of a bargain prix-fixe menu is not popular in Italy. Some restaurants do offer a menu turistico ("tourist menu"), which can cost from €8 to €20 and usually entails a choice from among two or three basic first courses (read: different pasta shapes, all in plain tomato sauce), a second course of roast chicken or a veal cutlet, and some water or wine and bread. With very few exceptions, tourist menus tend to live up to their name, appearing only at the sort of tourist-pandering restaurants that the locals wisely steer clear of.

    However, a menu à prezzo fisso ("fixed-price menu") is often a pretty good deal, usually offering a bit more choice than a tourist menu.

    Then—especially at nicer (and pricier) restaurants—there is the menu degustazione ("tasting menu"), usually far more expensive (anywhere from €25 to €110) that is a showcase of the chef's best, or of regional specialties, and can make for an excellent way to sample the kitchen's top dishes.
  • Book ahead: For restaurants that I am truly eager to try, I go ahead and book a table—at least at dinner. I find that a corollary of Murphy's Law seems to apply. If you prudently book ahead, you are likely to show up to a half-empty restaurant and feel a bit like a fool for having worried about finding a table. If, on the other hand, you just show up at the door expecting to find a free table, the place will inevitably be packed and its bookings full for the evening.
Culinary tours of Rome
Italian dining phrases
English (Inglese) Italian (Italiano) Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun
Good day Buon giorno bwohn JOUR-noh
Good evening Buona sera BWOH-nah SAIR-rah
Good night Buona notte BWOH-nah NOTE-tay
Goodbye Arrivederci ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee
Excuse me (to get attention) Scusi SKOO-zee
thank you grazie GRAT-tzee-yay
please per favore pair fa-VOHR-ray
yes si see
no no no
Do you speak English? Parla Inglese? PAR-la een-GLAY-zay
I don't understand Non capisco non ka-PEESK-koh
I'm sorry Mi dispiace mee dees-pee-YAT-chay
     
Where is? Dov'é doh-VAY
...a restaurant un ristorante oon rees toh-RAHN-tay
...a casual restaurant una trattoria
un'osteria
oo-nah trah-toar-RHEE-yah
oon ohst-air-EE-yah
I would like to reserve... Vorrei prenotare... voar-RAY pray-note-ARE-eh
a table for two una tavola per due oo-nah TAH-voal-lah pair DOO-way
...for 7pm per le sette pair lay SET-tay
...for 7:30pm per le sette e mezzo pair lay SET-tay eh MET-tzoh
...for 8pm per le otto pair lay OH-toh
     
I would like Vorrei... voar-RAY
...some (of) un pó (di) oon POH (dee)
...this questo KWAY-sto
...that quello KWEL-loh
chicken pollo POL-loh
steak bistecca bee-STEAK-ah
veal vitello vee-TEL-oh
fish pesce PEH-shay
meat carne KAR-neh
I am vegetarian sono vegetariano SO-no veg-eh-tair-ee-YAH-no
side dish [veggies always come seperately] cotorno kon-TOR-no
dessert dolce DOAL-chay
and e ay
...a glass of un bicchiere di oon bee-key-YAIR-eh dee
...a bottle of una bottiglia di oo-na boh-TEEL-ya dee
...a half-liter of mezzo litro di MET-tzoh LEE-tro dee
...fizzy water acqua gassata AH-kwah gah-SAHT-tah
...still water acqua non gassata AH-kwah noan gah-SAHT-tah
...red wine vino rosso VEE-noh ROH-so
...white wine vino bianco VEE-noh bee-YAHN-koh
...beer birra BEER-a
Check, please Il conto, per favore eel COAN-toh pair fah-VOAR-eh
Is service included? É incluso il servizio? ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo

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La Tana de Noantri

Via della Paglia 1–3 (the street leading west out of Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere)
tel. 06-580-6404
Closed Tues and Jan 8–Feb 2
€€€

Bus: 115, 23, 271, 280; Tram 8; 780



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