I remember the first time I poked my head into this simple storefront and was practically dragged inside by one of the three exuberantly friendly sisters-of-a-certain-age who run the place.
Sure, the tourists have long since discovered ai cugnai (the name mans "at the in-laws," a reference to the three men the sisters married, who ostensibly ran the place). It's pretty much impossible for them not to, seeing as how it lies precisely halfway between the Accademia and the Guggenheim (perfect place to take a break so you don't go into artistic overload).
However, the food is still delicious, the prices sort of reasonable (well, for Venice) and the welcome as warm as you'd expect from a trio of Italian aunties, who act collectively as the chefs (one son/nephew helps run the dining room).
Try for a table in the tiny inner courtyard—ask c'è post fuori? (chay POH-sto FWO-rree?)—and dig into such cucina Veneziana classics as spaghetti alle vongole verace (spaghetti with clams) and fegato alla veneziana (liver and onions).
This isn't fancy food; it's comfort food, impeccably prepared. Any Italian grandmamma would heartily approve of the homemade gnocchi and lasagna —in fact, there's no way to have a bad meal with any of the daily homemade specialties under fatta in casa on the menu.
Trattoria Ai Cugnai ★★
Calle Nuova Sant'Agnese 857, Dorsoduro
Vaporetto: Accademia (head east of bridge and Accademia in direction of Guggenheim Collection; on straight street connecting two museums, the restaurant is on your right).
tel. +39-041-528-9238
Closed Monday
€€€
English (Inglese) | Italian (Italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Good day | Buon giorno | bwohn JOUR-noh |
Good evening | Buona sera | BWOH-nah SAIR-rah |
Good night | Buona notte | BWOH-nah NOTE-tay |
Goodbye | Arrivederci | ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee |
Excuse me (to get attention) | Scusi | SKOO-zee |
thank you | grazie | GRAT-tzee-yay |
please | per favore | pair fa-VOHR-ray |
yes | si | see |
no | no | no |
Do you speak English? | Parla Inglese? | PAR-la een-GLAY-zay |
I don't understand | Non capisco | non ka-PEESK-koh |
I'm sorry | Mi dispiace | mee dees-pee-YAT-chay |
Where is? | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
...a restaurant | un ristorante | oon rees toh-RAHN-tay |
...a casual restaurant | una trattoria un'osteria |
oo-nah trah-toar-RHEE-yah oon ohst-air-EE-yah |
I would like to reserve... | Vorrei prenotare... | voar-RAY pray-note-ARE-eh |
a table for two | una tavola per due | oo-nah TAH-voal-lah pair DOO-way |
...for 7pm | per le sette | pair lay SET-tay |
...for 7:30pm | per le sette e mezzo | pair lay SET-tay eh MET-tzoh |
...for 8pm | per le otto | pair lay OH-toh |
I would like | Vorrei... | voar-RAY |
...some (of) | un pó (di) | oon POH (dee) |
...this | questo | KWAY-sto |
...that | quello | KWEL-loh |
chicken | pollo | POL-loh |
steak | bistecca | bee-STEAK-ah |
veal | vitello | vee-TEL-oh |
fish | pesce | PEH-shay |
meat | carne | KAR-neh |
I am vegetarian | sono vegetariano | SO-no veg-eh-tair-ee-YAH-no |
side dish [veggies always come seperately] | cotorno | kon-TOR-no |
dessert | dolce | DOAL-chay |
and | e | ay |
...a glass of | un bicchiere di | oon bee-key-YAIR-eh dee |
...a bottle of | una bottiglia di | oo-na boh-TEEL-ya dee |
...a half-liter of | mezzo litro di | MET-tzoh LEE-tro dee |
...fizzy water | acqua gassata | AH-kwah gah-SAHT-tah |
...still water | acqua non gassata | AH-kwah noan gah-SAHT-tah |
...red wine | vino rosso | VEE-noh ROH-so |
...white wine | vino bianco | VEE-noh bee-YAHN-koh |
...beer | birra | BEER-a |
Check, please | Il conto, per favore | eel COAN-toh pair fah-VOAR-eh |
Is service included? | É incluso il servizio? | ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo |
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