Castello di Monsanto ★★☆

This vineyard near Poggibonsi produces my favorite Chianti wine. (Their Classico Riserva 1995 is about the best I’ve ever tasted.)

At this medieval estate, Dr. Laura Bianchi carries on her father Fabrizio’s often iconoclastic oenological traditions—after buying Monsanto in 1961, he was among the first to produce a 100% sangiovese Chianti, and using only sangiovese grosso grapes at that. (Because this was illegal back in 1974, they still listed all the unused grapes on the labels.)

Aside from their exquisite “Chardonnay” (aged half in steel and half in wood, so that its fruitiness isn’t overpowered with oak but still has its body and longevity), they use native grapes as much as possible.

The result is a suite of remarkable and singular wines, like Il Poggio, a full-bodied elixir made with 90% sangiovese and 10% Colorino and Canaiolo (aged in Slovenian-wood barriques), or Tinscvil, a sangiovese-cabernet Supertuscan whose name, in Etruscan, means “Gift to the gods.”

They started bottling that last one after discovering an Etruscan tomb on the property, which also inspired them to extend their vast cellars with a huge hall built using a low Etruscan-style arch.

Down here and in the original 18C cellars are stored thousands of bottles from every year of production—many still for sale.

Book a few days in advance to tour the cellars and have a wine tasting.

It’s a little tricky to find the place because it doesn’t have any signs (call for directions), but it’s close to the SS2, two exits north of Poggibonsi on an SS429 side route.