
The home town of St. Francis draws pilgrims of both religion and art history with amazing frescoes by Giotto and others (also: Roman ruins)
Assisi should be a perfect Umbrian hill town.
It’s a tiered, overgrown village of pink and pale-gray stone drawn out along a mountainside and surrounded by a valley patchwork of fields and olive groves.
It boasts Roman roots, a glowering castle and twisting alleyways from the Middle Ages, and some of Italy’s finest early Renaissance art—all backed by the brilliant green slope of sacred Mt. Subasio.
But this city with a population of less than 3,000 (and shrinking) saw, in the late 20th century, an average of four to five million visitors every year.
This constant flood of travelers has polished the usual hill-town charm right off Assisi.
Countless pilgrims, art lovers, and just plain curious travelers over the last 700 years have imparted to the town a thick tourist shellac it often can’t quite shake even in its quietest, least visited corners.
It’s no accident the University of Perugia’s “tourism studies” program is based here.
All this aside, Assisi is still one of Italy’s top sights, ranking with the Colosseum, Pompeii, and Venice’s canals.
It preserves the remarkably intact portico of a Roman temple on its main square, one of the better-preserved Albornoz Roccas with sweeping views, and a two-story basilica hulking at one end of town that’s a festival of frescoes.
The basilica showcases the talents of the greatest geniuses of the early Renaissance, both Sienese (Pietro Lorenzetti and Simone Martini) and Florentine (Cimabue and the incomparable Giotto).
In the late Middle Ages, Assisi witnessed the birth and lives of saints Clare and Francis. Francis is Italy’s patron saint, founder of one of the world’s largest monastic orders, and generally considered just about the holiest person to walk the earth since Jesus.
The town is choked with visitors from Easter to June, and you sometimes can’t move in the basilica on religious holiday weekends.
The tourism support network, though, is in full force only when the crowds are in town, so while Assisi is packed beyond the limits in high season (book well in advance), you’ll find it a ghost town January through March; about three quarters of the hotels, restaurants, and museums close.
Earthquakes in 1997 rocked the heart of Umbria. In Assisi, Santa Chiara church and the Duomo were both damaged, but the Basilica di San Francesco was the worst hit. Part of the ceiling in the upper church collapsed, killing four people, destroying frescoes by Cimabue and his followers, and damaging Giotto’s Life of St. Francis frescoes.
Knowing the Papal Jubilee celebrations would begin at Christmas 1999, the Pope pulled some strings (luckily, the basilica is the only sovereign land belonging to the Vatican outside Rome’s Vatican City) and restoration sped along at a remarkable pace.
The lower church reopened within weeks, and the upper church and its frescoes by early 2000.
The rest of Assisi wasn’t so lucky, and it was years before many of the churches and museums in town were able to open their doors once again—though I'm happy to report that everything mentioned on this site has reopened, virtually all with set hours.
However, many streets in town remain dense tunnels of wood supports desperately shoring up the medieval buildings on either side to keep them from falling in on each other. Doorways and arches have been filled in with temporary struts. Hundreds of residents who had been living in “temporary” shipping containers outside town only got to move back home in 2001.
It will be a long time until Assisi recovers fully.
Assisi trip planner
Useful Italian for rail travel
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Where is? | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
...train station | la ferroviaria [or] la stazione | lah fair-o-vee-YAR-ree-yah [or] lah stat-zee-YO-nay |
ticket | un biglietto | oon beel-YET-toh |
first class | prima classe | PREE-mah CLAH-say |
second class | seconda classe | say-CONE-dah CLAH-say |
one way | solo andata | SO-low ahn-DAHT-tah |
round trip (return) | andata e ritorno | ahn-DAH-tah ay ree-TOUR-noh |
Just the supplement | Soltanto il supplemento | soul-TAHN-toh eel sou-play-MEN-toh |
Just a seat reservation | Soltanto una prenotazione | soal-TAHN-toh oo-nah pray-no-tah-tsee-YOH-nay |
I have a Eurailpass | Ho il Eurailpass | oh eel YOO-rail-pahs |
sleeping couchette | una cucetta | oo-nah koo-CHET-tah |
berth in a sleeping car | un posto nel vagone letto | oon POH-sto nell vah-GOAN-nay LET-toh |
track | binario | been-AR-ree-yoh |
train | treno | TRE-no |
car (carriage) | carozza | ka-RO-tza |
seat | posto | PO-sto |
departures | partenze | par-TEN-zay |
arrivals | arrivi | ah-REE-vee |
information | informazione | in-for-ma-tzee-OH-nay |
left luggage | deposito bagagli | day-PO-zee-toh ba-GAHL-yee |
punch your ticket | timbrare il biglietto | teem-BRA-ray eel beel-YET-toh |
Is this the right platform for the Rome train? | E questo il binario per il treno à Roma? | ay KWAY-sto eel been-AR-ree-yo pair eel TRE-no ah RO-ma? |
delayed | in retardo | een ree-TAR-do |
strike | sciopero | SHO-pair-oh |
Mon-Sat | Feriali | fair-ee-YAHL-ee |
Sun & holidays | Festivi | feh-STEE-vee |
Daily | Giornaliere | joor-nahl-ee-YAIR-eh |
City / Train station names | ||
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | Main station |
Rome | Roma | Termini |
Florence | Firenze | Santa Maria Novella |
Venice | Venezia | Santa Lucia |
Milan | Milano | Centrale |
Genoa | Genova | Porta Principe |
Naples | Napoli | Centrale |
Leghorn | Livorno | Centrale |
Turin | Torino | Porta Nuova |
Useful Italian for air travel
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Where is... | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
the airport | l'aeroporto | LAHW-ro-port-oh |
the airplane | l'aereo | LAIR-reh-oh |
terminal | terminal | TEAR-me-nahl |
flight | volo | VOH-lo |
gate | uscita d'imbarco | oo-SHEE-tah deem-BARK-oh |
to the right | à destra | ah DEH-strah |
to the left | à sinistra | ah see-NEEST-trah |
straight ahead | avanti [or] diritto | ah-VAHN-tee [or] dee-REE-toh |
keep going straight | sempre diritto | SEM-pray dee-REE-toh |
departures | partenze | par-TEN-zay |
arrivals | arrivi | ah-REE-vee |
delayed | in ritardo | een ree-TAR-doh |
on time | in orario | een oh-RAH-ree-yo |
early | in avanti | een ah-VAHN-tee |
boarding | imbarco | eem-BARK-o |
connecting flight | la coincidenza | la ko-een-chee-DEN-za |
check-in | accettazione | ah-chet-ta-zee-YO-nee |
immigration | controllo passaporti | cone-TRO-lo pah-sa-POR-tee |
security check | controllo di sicurezza | kohn-TRO-lo dee see-kur-AY-tzah |
customs | dogana | do-GA-na |
shuttle | la navetta | lah na-VET-tah |
boarding pass | carta d'imbarco | kart-ta deem-BARK-o |
baggage claim | ritiro bagagli | ree-TEER-oh bah-GA-lyee |
carry-on luggage | bagaglio à mano | bah-GA-lyo ah MA_no |
checked luggage | bagalio | bah-GA-lyo |
Useful Italian for car travel
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
car | automobile | ow-toh-MO-bee-lay |
scooter/motorboke | un motorino | oon mo-tair-EE-no |
gas station | stazione di servizio | stah-zee-YO-nay dee sair-VEE-tzee-yo |
gas | benzina | ben-ZEE-nah |
diesel | gasolio [or] diesel | gah-ZOH-lee-oh [or] DEE-zell |
Fill it up, please | al pieno, per favore | ahl pee-YAY-noh, pair fa-VOHR-ray |
Where is... | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
...the highway | l'autostrada | lout-oh-STRA-dah |
...the state highway | la statale [written "SS"] | lah sta-TAHL-eh |
...the road for Rome | la strada per Roma | lah STRA-dah pair RO-mah |
to the right | à destra | ah DEH-strah |
to the left | à sinistra | ah see-NEEST-trah |
straight ahead | avanti [or] diritto | ah-VAHN-tee [or] dee-REE-toh |
keep going straight | sempre diritto | SEM-pray dee-REE-toh |
to cross | attraversare | ah-tra-vair-SAR-ay |
toll | pedaggio | peh-DA-jo |
parking | parcheggio | par-KEH-jo |
road map | carta stradale | kar-ta stra-DA-lay |
where can I pay the fine? | dove posso pagare la multa | DOH-veh Po-so pag-GAR-ray la MOOL-tah |
Typical road signs / terms » more
English (anglais) | French (français) |
Stop | Stop |
Exit | Uscita |
Staffic light | Semaforo |
One-way | Senso unico |
Dead-end | Strada senza uscita |
Parking prohibited | No parcheggio or parcheggio proibito |
Pedestrian zone | Area pedonale |
Limited Traffic Zone (you pay to drive in) | ZTL or Zona Traffico Limitato |
Basic phrases in Italian
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | pro-nun-see-YAY-shun |
thank you | grazie | GRAT-tzee-yay |
please | per favore | pair fa-VOHR-ray |
yes | si | see |
no | no | no |
Do you speak English? | Parla Inglese? | PAR-la een-GLAY-zay |
I don't understand | Non capisco | non ka-PEESK-koh |
I'm sorry | Mi dispiace | mee dees-pee-YAT-chay |
How much is it? | Quanto costa? | KWAN-toh COST-ah |
That's too much | É troppo | ay TROH-po |
Good day | Buon giorno | bwohn JOUR-noh |
Good evening | Buona sera | BWOH-nah SAIR-rah |
Good night | Buona notte | BWOH-nah NOTE-tay |
Goodbye | Arrivederci | ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee |
Excuse me (to get attention) | Scusi | SKOO-zee |
Excuse me (to get past someone) | Permesso | pair-MEH-so |
Where is? | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
...the bathroom | il bagno | eel BHAN-yoh |
...train station | la ferroviaria | lah fair-o-vee-YAR-ree-yah |
to the right | à destra | ah DEH-strah |
to the left | à sinistra | ah see-NEEST-trah |
straight ahead | avanti [or] diritto | ah-VAHN-tee [or] dee-REE-toh |
information | informazione | in-for-ma-tzee-OH-nay |
Days, months, and other calendar items in Italian
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
When is it open? | Quando é aperto? | KWAN-doh ay ah-PAIR-toh |
When does it close? | Quando si chiude? | KWAN-doh see key-YOU-day |
At what time... | a che ora | a kay O-rah |
Yesterday | ieri | ee-YAIR-ee |
Today | oggi | OH-jee |
Tomorrow | domani | doh-MAHN-nee |
Day after tomorrow | dopo domani | DOH-poh doh-MAHN-nee |
a day | un giorno | oon je-YOR-no |
Monday | Lunedí | loo-nay-DEE |
Tuesday | Martedí | mar-tay-DEE |
Wednesday | Mercoledí | mair-coh-lay-DEE |
Thursday | Giovedí | jo-vay-DEE |
Friday | Venerdí | ven-nair-DEE |
Saturday | Sabato | SAH-baa-toh |
Sunday | Domenica | doh-MEN-nee-ka |
Mon-Sat | Feriali | fair-ee-YAHL-ee |
Sun & holidays | Festivi | feh-STEE-vee |
Daily | Giornaliere | joor-nahl-ee-YAIR-eh |
a month | una mese | oon-ah MAY-zay |
January | gennaio | jen-NAI-yo |
February | febbraio | feh-BRI-yo |
March | marzo | MAR-tzoh |
April | aprile | ah-PREEL-ay |
May | maggio | MAH-jee-oh |
June | giugno | JEW-nyoh |
July | luglio | LOO-lyoh |
August | agosto | ah-GO-sto |
September | settembre | set-TEM-bray |
October | ottobre | oh-TOE-bray |
November | novembre | no-VEM-bray |
December | dicembre | de-CHEM-bray |
Numbers in Italian
English (inglese) | Italian (italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
1 | uno | OO-no |
2 | due | DOO-way |
3 | tre | tray |
4 | quattro | KWAH-troh |
5 | cinque | CHEEN-kway |
6 | sei | say |
7 | sette | SET-tay |
8 | otto | OH-toh |
9 | nove | NO-vay |
10 | dieci | dee-YAY-chee |
11 | undici | OON-dee-chee |
12 | dodici | DOH-dee-chee |
13 | tredici | TRAY-dee-chee |
14 | quattordici | kwa-TOR-dee-chee |
15 | quindici | KWEEN-dee-chee |
16 | sedici | SAY-dee-chee |
17 | diciasette | dee-chee-ya-SET-tay |
18 | diciotto | dee-CHO-toh |
19 | diciannove | dee-chee-ya-NO-vay |
20 | venti | VENT-tee |
21* | vent'uno* | vent-OO-no |
22* | venti due* | VENT-tee DOO-way |
23* | venti tre* | VENT-tee TRAY |
30 | trenta | TRAYN-tah |
40 | quaranta | kwa-RAHN-tah |
50 | cinquanta | cheen-KWAN-tah |
60 | sessanta | say-SAHN-tah |
70 | settanta | seh-TAHN-tah |
80 | ottanta | oh-TAHN-tah |
90 | novanta | no-VAHN-tah |
100 | cento | CHEN-toh |
1,000 | mille | MEEL-lay |
5,000 | cinque milla | CHEEN-kway MEEL-lah |
10,000 | dieci milla | dee-YAY-chee MEEL-lah |
* You can use this formula for all Italian ten-place numbers—so 31 is trent'uno, 32 is trenta due, 33 is trenta tre, etc. Note that—like uno (one), otto (eight) also starts with a vowel—all "-8" numbers are also abbreviated (vent'otto, trent'otto, etc.).